A Cathedral of Things to Eat

Nearly thirty years after the Eiffel Tower had been constructed and unveiled to the world in the Exposition of 1889, the civic leaders of Valencia, a major port on Spain’s Mediterranean coast, decided to demonstrate that their city was just as wealthy as the city of Paris. And so, in 1914, they began building El Mercado Central, the Central Market. Their claim of money and power was not a fantasy: since the Romans founded the city more than 2,100 years ago, the Coast of The Orange Blossoms, (La Costa del Azahar) and Valencia, its capitol, have stocked kitchens and pantries all over the world with ceramics, rice, pomegranates, artichokes, plums and of course, their most famous export, oranges.

Although the horizontally-designed Mercado Central and the vertical Eiffel Tower seem to have little in common, both structures share a material integral to their construction. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, wrought iron was used for manufacturing everything from horseshoes to rails for trains and streetcars. Many architectects and engineers regarded it as the perfect material for creating “modern” architecture.
Read More

At Night, Somewhere

Some of the pleasures of leaving your home and traveling to Somewhere are your encounters with the new, the unexpected and the strange. Why else travel? During her long life, the British explorer Freya Stark (1893-1993) traveled to many Somewheres. The following words appear in her Baghdad Sketches, 1932:

To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world. You are surrounded by adventure. You have no idea of what is in store for you, but you will, if you are wise and know the art of travel, let yourself go on the stream of the unknown and accept whatever comes.”                                                                                                    

Whether you tiptoe one step at a time into the stream or leap into it with a big splash, your acceptance of “whatever comes” is crucial to living in the Somewhere. But often, especially if you travel alone, you may find that, in addition to to being surrounded by adventure, you also carry your aloneness, the awareness of being a stranger. Natives may welcome you, but you are still someone from somewhere else.

Read More

The Ministry of Information

We should be grateful to the Spanish painter Salvador Dalí, (1904-1989), not only for hundreds of his incomparable visions, but also for the dozens of the prescient, and usually witty, remarks he uttered during his time with us on earth. Probably the most well-known is: “I don’t take drugs. I am drugs.”

My favorite quote, however, is this one: “So little that can happen does…. For instance, when you order lobster in a restaurant, why don’t you get instead a telephone book on fire?”
Read More